My Waterfall Coat B5808

new2Fits perfectly after the pattern alteration.

newThe inside of the fabric is reverse and brighter

Waterfall Coat Side…and the sleeves can turn back to match the ‘waterfall’ front.

Waterfall Coat insideInside – all seams finished with freshly made silk/cotton bias

Waterfall Coat Fr1

I first saw this cozy coat on Burdastyle, a member had posted their sewing project, the only person I have seen on this world wide web do a post on this particular pattern.  I loved the look of this soft falling coat and this particular Burdastyle member cemented the idea that I had to make it.  The only thing is why is there no other review of this coat?  Well I did find 1 more review and it was very bad, the oversize of this pattern rendered it a ‘sack’ .  Lucky for me I took this review on board and pinned it together and realised where I could make it work.  Hopefully this will help others with this pattern B5808.

It says I would need 3.5 yards for L size.  I cut it in the same width fabric in only 2.6, so that was awesome.  The fabric is an Anna Sui Wool blend from Mood Fabrics.  I have to note here that Mood Fabrics ignored 3 emails from me trying to order it. International ordering is very frustrating through Mood Fabrics. In the end I used MyUS to move it for me, this cost only $10 that MyUS charge me to do the order, then of course the freight from US to Brunei is NOT cheap.

That sorted, the fabric has arrived and I have altered the pattern by simply shortening not where it suggests on the pattern, but right across the upper chest/back/armhole. Pictures below. Then cutting the back pattern into more of a straight coat, not the flared look the pattern would have me make.  The front is loose enough.

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Same parallel lines at the top of the Back here.

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…and finally the sleeve. Because the entire depth from the shoulder to the lower armhole was huge. I’ve taken 4cm off the depth.

Now for the fabric. This wonderfully soft Anna Sui wool jacquard can be used either side.  I wanted the pockets in this coat, so I could not make it reversible. Never mind, the inside shows on the waterfall collar! Also I did french seams (flat felled seams), just looks neater, as this is an unlined coat.

Fabric below, and photoshop image I have made to get a visual.  Now I will go away and make it, and will post once completed.  Looking forward to wearing this with jeans and boots!

photo

Ann Sui wool blend

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Gearing up for some serious SEWING!

Long time no post. That is because I’ve been doing the office job and finally finish up in 2 weeks! thats when the real fun starts, the designing, maybe even a bit of steam punk,  with full time creative angles.

Actually most of my creations are posted on burdastyle.com as there is a huge group of sewists and creative designers all linked there.

The stash is outa hand SERIOUSLY now.  How does anyone manage to duplicate such a stash in 2 countries? It occurred to me this doubles when I return to Australia in 6 months.  Back home in Australia accumulation over 20 years, and here in Brunei over the last 2 years!  Where am I going to put all this?  I plan to run art side  (opposite to ‘dark side’) sewing classes with some of my stash, canvas art with some unusual combos to boot..

Brunei is a lot tidier than my Australian creation-space, so lets hope I have learnt to stay tidy when I return.

Brunei sewing room2

the hidden stash

I’m also learning fashion in CS6 photoshop.  It is totally new to me, but fabulous to create the design and apply the fabrics, and this one is still not complete!

cs6 fashion application

Having fun as usual in that ‘space’.

The Three Maxis!

Comfortable for Western Australian summer, these rayon jersey knit/Ity maxi dresses will be easy to wear.  I made these three for my step daughter, who’s birthday is actually on 25th December!

The Three maxi

fabrics from Gorgeous Fabrics, and Marcy Tilton

The floral one is an Ity.  great to sew.  The other two streeeeeeetchy rayon jersey knits had a huge stretch running vertical also, so I needed to make the dresses, then hang them on the mannequin. The next day the length had dropped about 6cm.  Cut off to desired length and then hemmed.  I used two different bias edging methods, all worked very well with these fabrics.

Marcy Jacket V8620

Made this jacket 6 months ago for the Tilton trip to Paris with the Tilton sisters.  But I see Mood Fabrics still has the fabric available.  Was awesome to work with this – stretch cotton http://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics/cotton/stretch-cotton/shades-of-blue-lightweight-stretch-cotton-print-303347.html

If I could wear skinny jeans I would have made them too, just because I could.  But I can’t, I have trunks not branches….

So here is my take on Marcy’s jacket, locally found satin for lining (difficult to find non-blingy fabrics in Brunei). Finished with a Riri zip.  I left the sleeves  without the cuff, but I like either way. Special attachment below on the zipper pull.

front

Complete

start

The body is in two pieces. This gives a very flattering shape to the jacket and the body that wears it!

just sleeve left

The sleeves are in two pieces, this gives a truly shapely sleeve and wears like a tailored sleeve. Nice touch.

side

side view

pocket

clever pocket, almost can’t see it

photo 1

white animal print satin lining

starfish charm on zip

Final touch, a starfish charm on the zipper pull.

My Pur Jus Dress – self drafted Linen Dress

Finally the Pur Jus Dress i have called this.  Made from EmmaOneSock  softest linen ever.   Drafted a pattern to reflect tucks, darts and curves that go well with linen fabric.  I loved the fabric so much that I bought the other colourway – grey shades.

linen dress. softest ever

Made a form of twisted neckline, i liked the way it turned out, the pressing makes it permanent.  Armholes with facing.

Pur Jus4

Loads of darts for a bit of shape.

Pur Jus dress

Darts made ‘inside out’ for some fun. I eventually placed some ‘floating’ pockets on the side where the side front panel sat. Haven’t taken that photo yet…Pur Jus dress2

Lined Winter Coat

Regans denim n leather6

Burda #6036

I made a coat with a soft woven denim fabric.  Woven, not printed, Finished look of fabric made to look faded.  Very nice stretch quality from Marcy Tilton.

This pattern originally came from Burda downloadable patterns.  But I don’t see the pattern reviewed anywhere (Nancy #6036).  Was relatively easy to make, i omitted the pleated shoulder attachment, but kept the theme with the pockets and back tab, pleated.   I completely lined the coat with no seams showing, all machine stitched.

Regans denim n leather

Leather tabs for closing

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Shoulder set by tailoring methods

I love the collar, the cut was excellent, Burda did this well.  The detail of the pocket here, where I used the tie-dye lining (satin poly) as the edging, and a black jacquard piece I had in my stash for the pleating.

Regans denim n leather2

Pocket detail

The Back tab had to be re-sewn as the coat was too big and after taking in the side seams, mainly in the waist, the tab had to be re-sewn.  Made a few adjustments with regards to attaching and finishing.

Regans denim n leather4

Back Detail

Finished

Regans denim n leather3

Marcy Tilton B5891 pattern in printed LINEN

I decided to make a few linen garments back in March, since I’m living in Brunei, and linen is a wonderful option in tropical high humidity heat.  I was heading off to Paris to meet with Marcy and katherine Tilton (and a good kiwi friend), for a week of fashion and fun.  So I made Marcy’s vest pattern, very funky and quirky lines, deliberately falling in whimsy ways!

The pictures here show the vest straight out of my suitcase, and it stood up very well during packing.  I love this vest!

B5891 front

I can wear ANY colour under this garment. Great with jeans, black pants or linen pants.

B5891 Side View

B5891 Side View after taking the side in HEAPS

B5891 back

Back view

B5891 back n bag

…with my new Groom Bag I got from Marcy. WHAT a bag. love it

rustic buttons

Rustic buttons

I did not line the collar band but certainly will the next time, because unless I have the buttons done up to the top, the band flops open and you can see the inside, not that it matters with linen, the print almost comes through .

Winter Tunic

Winter Tunic Front

Winter Tunic Front

I drafted a new tunic and started making it right away.  Too impatient for a mock-up, I feel along the way to keep it flowing and it all matched up very well. Five different fabrics in total but equally as balanced right through.  Black fabric is Marcy’s Black Parisian Microfiber Knit, with black eyelet pleather edging.

Side view with MacBeth Bamboo from Marcy

Side view with MacBeth Bamboo from Marcy

Side view with missoni-ish print

Side view with missoni-ish print

Winter Tunic Back

Back View with myfabrics.uk large spot

The pocket was machine stitched from the inside. I used lingerie FOE (fold over elastic) for the top edge.

Winter Tunic Volcano Knit pocket

Pocket in Marcy’s Volcano Knit

I finished the neck edge with the same fabric as one of the sleeves – completing in a fiddly ‘twisted band’ effect.  First time i’ve managed to do this in a WIDE band.

Winter Tunic Twisted Band

Twisted Neck Band

I’m going to cut a length from the stripe for a scarf. Will wear this with black boots back in Perth – winter of course!

Katherine Tilton Top B5925

So soft and warm!

So soft and warm!

I made this for a friend – it was a newly released pattern, and I wanted to make it before I return for a quick visit to Perth in August. So, love the shape and comfort.  I used the David Knit Stripe from Marcy Tiltons range, and  the gorgeous quality of navy rayon jersey came from jerseyfashion in Germany (but you can get the same quality from Marcy Tilton)   The multi print ity came from gorgeousfabrics.

Functional Pocket

Functional Pocket

Marcy David Knit stripeI had some issues with sewing the combination of fabrics – rayon jersey, ity and the stripe knit all had their own character. SO…I used double sided narrow iron on web for hems.  FANTASTIC stuff. I was also able to use my cover stitch machine for the hems with no issues.

Can't sew to the edge - it bunches.

Janome CoverPro 1000cpx. Can’t sew to the edge – it bunches.

I will have to make one for myself now!