Lined Winter Coat

Regans denim n leather6

Burda #6036

I made a coat with a soft woven denim fabric.  Woven, not printed, Finished look of fabric made to look faded.  Very nice stretch quality from Marcy Tilton.

This pattern originally came from Burda downloadable patterns.  But I don’t see the pattern reviewed anywhere (Nancy #6036).  Was relatively easy to make, i omitted the pleated shoulder attachment, but kept the theme with the pockets and back tab, pleated.   I completely lined the coat with no seams showing, all machine stitched.

Regans denim n leather

Leather tabs for closing

Regans denim n leather5

Shoulder set by tailoring methods

I love the collar, the cut was excellent, Burda did this well.  The detail of the pocket here, where I used the tie-dye lining (satin poly) as the edging, and a black jacquard piece I had in my stash for the pleating.

Regans denim n leather2

Pocket detail

The Back tab had to be re-sewn as the coat was too big and after taking in the side seams, mainly in the waist, the tab had to be re-sewn.  Made a few adjustments with regards to attaching and finishing.

Regans denim n leather4

Back Detail

Finished

Regans denim n leather3

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Marcy Tilton B5891 pattern in printed LINEN

I decided to make a few linen garments back in March, since I’m living in Brunei, and linen is a wonderful option in tropical high humidity heat.  I was heading off to Paris to meet with Marcy and katherine Tilton (and a good kiwi friend), for a week of fashion and fun.  So I made Marcy’s vest pattern, very funky and quirky lines, deliberately falling in whimsy ways!

The pictures here show the vest straight out of my suitcase, and it stood up very well during packing.  I love this vest!

B5891 front

I can wear ANY colour under this garment. Great with jeans, black pants or linen pants.

B5891 Side View

B5891 Side View after taking the side in HEAPS

B5891 back

Back view

B5891 back n bag

…with my new Groom Bag I got from Marcy. WHAT a bag. love it

rustic buttons

Rustic buttons

I did not line the collar band but certainly will the next time, because unless I have the buttons done up to the top, the band flops open and you can see the inside, not that it matters with linen, the print almost comes through .

Winter Tunic

Winter Tunic Front

Winter Tunic Front

I drafted a new tunic and started making it right away.  Too impatient for a mock-up, I feel along the way to keep it flowing and it all matched up very well. Five different fabrics in total but equally as balanced right through.  Black fabric is Marcy’s Black Parisian Microfiber Knit, with black eyelet pleather edging.

Side view with MacBeth Bamboo from Marcy

Side view with MacBeth Bamboo from Marcy

Side view with missoni-ish print

Side view with missoni-ish print

Winter Tunic Back

Back View with myfabrics.uk large spot

The pocket was machine stitched from the inside. I used lingerie FOE (fold over elastic) for the top edge.

Winter Tunic Volcano Knit pocket

Pocket in Marcy’s Volcano Knit

I finished the neck edge with the same fabric as one of the sleeves – completing in a fiddly ‘twisted band’ effect.  First time i’ve managed to do this in a WIDE band.

Winter Tunic Twisted Band

Twisted Neck Band

I’m going to cut a length from the stripe for a scarf. Will wear this with black boots back in Perth – winter of course!

Katherine Tilton Top B5925

So soft and warm!

So soft and warm!

I made this for a friend – it was a newly released pattern, and I wanted to make it before I return for a quick visit to Perth in August. So, love the shape and comfort.  I used the David Knit Stripe from Marcy Tiltons range, and  the gorgeous quality of navy rayon jersey came from jerseyfashion in Germany (but you can get the same quality from Marcy Tilton)   The multi print ity came from gorgeousfabrics.

Functional Pocket

Functional Pocket

Marcy David Knit stripeI had some issues with sewing the combination of fabrics – rayon jersey, ity and the stripe knit all had their own character. SO…I used double sided narrow iron on web for hems.  FANTASTIC stuff. I was also able to use my cover stitch machine for the hems with no issues.

Can't sew to the edge - it bunches.

Janome CoverPro 1000cpx. Can’t sew to the edge – it bunches.

I will have to make one for myself now!

Crushed Tee

crushed tee1a

I love crushed fabrics, and have a great stash.  When I can find I buy – this deep cobalt colour is gorgeous and the only place I could find this fine quality is in Germany myfabrics.co.uk  called ‘crash jersey’, I’ve since found some at Marcy Tilton’s site also.   The other multi colour fabrics came from Marcy Tilton’s site.

I used my own rough tee pattern and marked off where I wanted the cuts to follow the body. then I traced off the pieces with very small seam allowances – I only allow enough for the ‘serger’ or overlocker as we call it in Aust/NZ.  So there is no actual allowance.  You have to get the fit right at the start.  I overlock all the pieces once cut. Then I pin the pieces together and sew a straight stitch to put it al together.  I attached some eyelet tape across the front, not so much to break up the pieces more but to actually bring it all together.  I love wearing this, no ironing, and the colour is bold but not bright!

Yay, I just found more CRUSHED fabrics on fabric.com  http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Darts-crafts&field-keywords=Florence%20Crushed%20Jersey%20Knit

crushed tee1

Butterick B5495 Maxi Dress

Here’s my first dressmaking blog – starting with the latest project. I’m starting ‘backwards’ but you gotta start somewhere right?  So many sewist blogs around the world have inspired me to write my own experiences. Thank you all the girls in US…

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This maxi dress looked great on others with a similar spread to me!    Sew I made it for myself.  There were changes…

Firstly I wanted to use this Gorgeous Fabrics ITY : strata-lightful ITY jersey- purple tones’.  This vibrant fabric had a mirror image design down the centre. The neckline of the pattern was too loooow…especially that I’m a kiwi living in Brunei!

Second, the shoulders were very wide, this I needed to change so I added about 8mm elastic to gather in (added into the seam).  This also added strength to the fabric falling from the shoulders.

Lastly, the tab under the bust ended up making the dress too tight and the dress simply looked too fitting at the back. I have slightly sway back. So I re-cut the tab 7cm longer, end result more room all around under the bust. It now fits perfectly with softer pleats down the c.f.  I left the lower edge unhemmed,  Gotta love that ITY!

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Bonus……. when I was putting the dress back on my dress form, I loved where it dropped – I think I’ll make a dress that looks like this!

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